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There are a ton of Japanese restaurants that line this stretch of the East Village, so why Sobaya? Why not Sobaya, its ultra-dedicated patrons would argue, for the buckwheat soba, as well as the hearty udon on tap here, are consistently off-the-charts good. Co-owner and mini-mogul, Bon Yagi, favors authenticity over flash in his establishments. And here he employs that traditional aesthetic to sweet perfection—along with a graceful, but simply appointed dining space; and quiet, well-timed service.

A meal might begin with uni and grated mountain yam, kissed with wasabi and crispy, toasted nori. Then, transition to a seasonal noodle dish like warm soba mingled with plump, pickled oysters, mountain yam, cilantro and tempura root vegetables.