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There are restaurants where soaking in the atmosphere is part of the experience, and then there’s Daikaya. This no-reservations ramen shop is bursting at the seams (though the izakaya upstairs is an acceptable consolation prize if the wait downstairs is interminable). The unfussy space is filled with communal tables and booths, but the counter offers an unbeatable view of the hustle and bustle. Loud pop and rap music set the tone here, where you’re expected to order, slurp and move on.

Daikaya is famous for its Sapporo-style ramen. Here, the white miso tare is kicked up a notch with chili spice. It's the most popular bowl, but try the special mugi-miso (barley miso) ramen with a side of citrusy yuzu kosho chili sauce for a change of pace.