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DBGB Kitchen and Bar’s City Center locale may rub shoulders with the likes of Hermès and Louis Vuitton, but this light-filled French restaurant maintains a relaxed elegance with tile floors, dark wood furnishings and orb pendant lights. It’s the kind of place where local politicos and dealmakers come to dish, drink and dine.

The menu is varied, with ambitious Americanized cuisine (chicken soup and yellowfin tuna) and traditional French selections sharing equal billing. Highlights include the spot-on steak tartare, delicious blue crab spaghettini and plump scallops in a well-executed and superbly buttery grenobloise. A massive burger with pork belly veers stateside, while classic roast chicken and steak frites are redolent of a Parisian bistro.