Myriad restaurants boast of their live fire and grilling prowess, but few are as brazen as Maydān, whose roaring hearth verges on wildfire and is a veritable showstopper. Of course, the chefs tasked with taming it—and practically cooking in it—are nothing short of culinary zealots. The heat is brutal and cooking method raw and elemental, but the results are pure bliss. Rolled and fresh-baked pita arrives first and is accompanied by condiments like spicy harissa and garlicky tuom. While this can make for a feast on its own, be patient, as they take on a whole new life when wrapped inside the likes of smoked duck breast or roast chicken. Carnivores can't seem to get enough of the hulking lamb shoulder—dark and charred as volcanic rock but so deliciously tender that it can almost be spread like butter. Piled into the fluffy pita with mint and onions, it's a triumph. Guests, many of whom line up well before opening hours, are spared from the heat—seated comfortably in a rustic, bi-level space with patterned wood, exposed brick, and lofty ceilings. Solo diners are welcome, but it's not advised as even the most timid of appetites will want to sample the full breadth and talent of this gutsy kitchen.
- Inspektorzy MICHELIN
