The brand, dating back to 1876, was reopened on the same spot in 2019 by a descendant of the founder. The traditional Chinese façade is chic and striking; the room decorated with lanterns boasts canal views. The custom-made noodles work well with broth jazzed up by dried scallops. In summer, the shrimp-trio noodles are the must-try – springy shrimps with shrimp roe and tomalley make for an umami extravaganza. In winter, try the crab roe version.