The characters on the sign read ‘tàocān’, meaning ‘set menu’ in Chinese. Keen to become their customers’ habitual haunt, Yiwanshui serves Chinese home cooking. Jiǔ cǎi pén, served at lunch, features a colourful appetiser platter showcasing nine different dishes. The approach here is to use familiar ingredients and take the time and effort to bring their native goodness to the fore. A light touch on the oil and seasonings makes the fare easy on the constitution and places natural flavours front and centre.