Intent on breathing novelty into Japanese cuisine, the chef does not shrink from making changes. He pulls out all the stops in both creativity and skill, with innovations such as sashimi marinated in soy sauce or wrapped in nori. Dashi is drawn in an enamelled pot, on the theory that this elicits its pure umami. ‘Sui’ is a tribute to the restaurant where the chef apprenticed, whose lessons he applies in his own cuisine. Giving thanks for techniques learned while moving ever forwards defines this chef’s mission.