Go ahead and pinch yourself: you're not dreaming. Pinch Chinese is really that good. The decor, with lanterns overhead, a busy front bar and a window into the focused kitchen, is straight-up SoHo, but the food is all Flushing. Soup dumplings remain superlative, especially the crab version, delicate, steaming and deeply flavorful. Spicy wontons in house chili oil deliver real heat, and the homemade tofu hot pot layered with maitake and truffle is deeply satisfying. Have a scallion pancake martini or explore the thoughtful wine list, written with clarity and care.