À la carte fare is the star here, to ensure that diners can taste whatever takes their fancy. To convey the passing of the seasons through food, the chef updates the menu every day. A full range of wanmono spoils diners for choice. Potato salad swaps ham for beef; isobe-age is topped with aosa nori, a laver seaweed, to bring out the scent of the sea. Nonchalant twists such as these form lasting impressions.