After a long stint in a Taipei vegetarian restaurant, the chef returned to his hometown, piquing curiosity with his refined plant-based cuisine. He serves three set menus with artfully plated courses that layer rich flavours. Varied techniques, such as fermenting, pickling, grilling, braising and searing, are deftly used to great effect. The vegan braised pork rice uses diced monkey head mushrooms instead of pork, creating light, briny umami.