Pierre and Lydie now reign over the revolving bridge in a swish, modern edifice whose glazed walls command a matchless view of the harbour. What better venue to celebrate the fish from small boats, lobsters and shellfish from Cotentin, so beloved of the chef? The entirely meat-free menu focuses on surgically and delicately curated seafood, sprinkled with creativity and the odd distinctive Japanese or exotic touch: a Salsa Criolla of red mullet; pollock in yuzu and milk kefir; fillet of seabass with cockles and green veggies in ginger beer…