When the sun shines, head for this knockout riverside spot in the shadow of Belgrade Fortress. It is one of several whitewashed former customs warehouses flanked by waterside terraces, but this one is owned by an architect, hence the sleek, stylish decor. The score is purebred Italian, starring traditional recipes such as tagliatelle al ragù, bruschetta, tiramisu and a scattering of pizzas. Impressive choice of liqueurs and spirits, in particular gin, and a fine selection of cocktails and mocktails.